Microwave current draw

Submitted by Anonymous on

Forums: 

From: Jack Morgan <jmorgan1023 [at] comcast.net>
Sender: <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject: Microwave current draw
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2014 08:36:09 -0400
To: <lml [at] lancaironline.net>

Hi Tim:


If the inverter is really delivering 1100 watts to the oven then it is drawing 85 amps or so from your 14 volt system (over 100 amps if the voltage falls to 11 volts). Suggest you check carefully if the wiring/breaker and engine monitor are both up to that current delivery. You will obviously run the battery down fairly quickly even if the alternator will support 60 amps continuous.

Jack Morgan

On Apr 2, 2014, at 6:00 AM, Lancair Mailing List <lml [at] lancaironline.net

> wrote:



From: Tim Jørgensen <tj [at] yacht-pool.dk

>
Subject: LNC2 wiring issues
Date: April 1, 2014 at 8:57:04 AM EDT
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net





Instead of adding useless lead in the tail cone, I decided to cure a fwd. CG problem with the installation of a more useful microwave oven in the luggage compartment. The CG problem is somewhat fixed now, but I seem to have traded it for an electrical problem.
I found a relatively small portable micro wave on the internet and made a fixed installation for it. It is a 230v unit, but I have just added a 14v to 230v inverter, which seems to work just fine. At first everything worked flawlessly, but recently the alternator breaker has started popping ever more often and is seems related to use of the oven.
If I heat something small, like a single corn dog, there is no problem but if I heat larger objects like a turkey leg, the engine monitor cuts out in an alternating pattern for a while and then the alternator breaker pops. But, then again, maybe that is due to the higher wattage needed???
I am afraid my 60 amp alternator is not quite up to the job or should I just install a heavier circuit breaker? The oven is labelled "CE 230v 1080w".
 
Regards
Tim Jorgensen
360MKII in flight testing

Microwave current draw

Submitted by Anonymous on

From: Mark Sletten <mwsletten [at] gmail.com>
Sender: <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] Microwave current draw
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2014 09:26:06 -0400
To: <lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Message Header


Undecoded Message
You clean 'em, I'll fry 'em!





On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 7:36 AM, Jack Morgan <jmorgan1023 [at] comcast.net

> wrote:
Hi Tim:

If the inverter is really delivering 1100 watts to the oven then it is drawing 85 amps or so from your 14 volt system (over 100 amps if the voltage falls to 11 volts). Suggest you check carefully if the wiring/breaker and engine monitor are both up to that current delivery. You will obviously run the battery down fairly quickly even if the alternator will support 60 amps continuous.

Jack Morgan

On Apr 2, 2014, at 6:00 AM, Lancair Mailing List <lml [at] lancaironline.net

> wrote:



From: Tim Jørgensen <tj [at] yacht-pool.dk

>
Subject: LNC2 wiring issues
Date: April 1, 2014 at 8:57:04 AM EDT
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net






Instead of adding useless lead in the tail cone, I decided to cure a fwd. CG problem with the installation of a more useful microwave oven in the luggage compartment. The CG problem is somewhat fixed now, but I seem to have traded it for an electrical problem.
I found a relatively small portable micro wave on the internet and made a fixed installation for it. It is a 230v unit, but I have just added a 14v to 230v inverter, which seems to work just fine. At first everything worked flawlessly, but recently the alternator breaker has started popping ever more often and is seems related to use of the oven.
If I heat something small, like a single corn dog, there is no problem but if I heat larger objects like a turkey leg, the engine monitor cuts out in an alternating pattern for a while and then the alternator breaker pops. But, then again, maybe that is due to the higher wattage needed???
I am afraid my 60 amp alternator is not quite up to the job or should I just install a heavier circuit breaker? The oven is labelled "CE 230v 1080w".
 
Regards
Tim Jorgensen
360MKII in flight testing




Microwave current draw

Submitted by Anonymous on

From: <vtailjeff [at] aol.com>
Sender: <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] Microwave current draw
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2014 10:18:15 -0400
To: <lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Message Header


Undecoded Message

Note the date on Tim's original post...April Fools Day...
 
sitting here LMAO ;)!!!!!
 
Jeff
-----Original Message-----

From: Jack Morgan <jmorgan1023 [at] comcast.net>

To: lml <lml [at] lancaironline.net>

Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 7:36 am

Subject: [LML] Microwave current draw


Hi Tim:

If the inverter is really delivering 1100 watts to the oven then it is drawing 85 amps or so from your 14 volt system (over 100 amps if the voltage falls to 11 volts). Suggest you check carefully if the wiring/breaker and engine monitor are both up to that current delivery. You will obviously run the battery down fairly quickly even if the alternator will support 60 amps continuous.

Jack Morgan

On Apr 2, 2014, at 6:00 AM, Lancair Mailing List <lml [at] lancaironline.net

> wrote:



From: Tim Jørgensen <tj [at] yacht-pool.dk

>
Subject: LNC2 wiring issues
Date: April 1, 2014 at 8:57:04 AM EDT
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net





Instead of adding useless lead in the tail cone, I decided to cure a fwd. CG problem with the installation of a more useful microwave oven in the luggage compartment. The CG problem is somewhat fixed now, but I seem to have traded it for an electrical problem.
I found a relatively small portable micro wave on the internet and made a fixed installation for it. It is a 230v unit, but I have just added a 14v to 230v inverter, which seems to work just fine. At first everything worked flawlessly, but recently the alternator breaker has started popping ever more often and is seems related to use of the oven.
If I heat something small, like a single corn dog, there is no problem but if I heat larger objects like a turkey leg, the engine monitor cuts out in an alternating pattern for a while and then the alternator breaker pops. But, then again, maybe that is due to the higher wattage needed???
I am afraid my 60 amp alternator is not quite up to the job or should I just install a heavier circuit breaker? The oven is labelled "CE 230v 1080w".
 
Regards
Tim Jorgensen
360MKII in flight testing

Microwave current draw

Submitted by Anonymous on

From: Tim Jørgensen <tj [at] yacht-pool.dk>
Sender: <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] Microwave current draw
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2014 10:18:42 -0400
To: <lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Message Header


Undecoded Message
"If the inverter is really delivering 1100 watts to the oven then it is
drawing 85 amps or so from your 14 volt system (over 100 amps if the voltage
falls to 11 volts)."
 
Finally a useful answer to an honest cry for help!
 
- You guys are generally of little or no help to guys asking questions on
april 1st...... 
 
Anyway, I have investigated further and solved the problem on my
own!
 - I simply do not run the micro wave and the dishwasher at the same
time.....
 
 
Nice weekend to y´all
Tim  
 
 
----- Original Message -----

To: lml [at] lancaironline.net

Sent: Friday, April 04, 2014 2:36
PM
Subject: [LML] Microwave current
draw

Hi Tim:


If the inverter is really delivering 1100 watts to the oven then it is
drawing 85 amps or so from your 14 volt system (over 100 amps if the voltage
falls to 11 volts). Suggest you check carefully if the wiring/breaker and
engine monitor are both up to that current delivery. You will obviously run
the battery down fairly quickly even if the alternator will support 60 amps
continuous.

Jack Morgan

On Apr 2, 2014, at 6:00 AM, Lancair Mailing List <lml [at] lancaironline.net

>
wrote:


From: Tim Jørgensen <tj [at] yacht-pool.dk

>
Subject: LNC2 wiring issues
Date: April 1, 2014 at 8:57:04 AM
EDT
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net




Instead of adding useless lead in the tail cone,
I decided to cure a fwd. CG problem with the installation of a more useful
microwave oven in the luggage compartment. The CG problem is
somewhat fixed now, but I seem to have traded it for an electrical
problem.
I found a relatively small portable micro wave on the
internet and made a fixed installation for it. It is a 230v unit, but I have
just added a 14v to 230v inverter, which seems to work just fine. At first
everything worked flawlessly, but recently the alternator breaker has
started popping ever more often and is seems related to use of the
oven.
If I heat something small, like a single corn dog, there
is no problem but if I heat larger objects like a turkey leg, the engine
monitor cuts out in an alternating pattern for a while and then the
alternator breaker pops. But, then again, maybe that is due to the higher
wattage needed???
I am afraid my 60 amp alternator is not quite up to the
job or should I just install a heavier circuit breaker? The oven is labelled
"CE 230v 1080w".
 
Regards
Tim Jorgensen
360MKII in flight testing

Microwave current draw

Submitted by Anonymous on

From: Gary Fitzgerald <gbfitz [at] swbell.net>
Sender: <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [LML] Microwave current draw
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2014 07:47:59 -0400
To: <lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Message Header


Undecoded Message

Yeah, once he said he had an LNC2 with a forward CG problem I knew something was fishy.

 

Gary Fitzgerald

LNC2 ~70%

St. Charles, MO

Looking for a good deal on

a rebuildable or used (I)O-360

 

 

From: vtailjeff [at] aol.com [vtailjeff [at] aol.com]">mailto:vtailjeff [at] aol.com]
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2014 9:18 AM
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net
Subject: Re: [LML] Microwave current draw

 

Note the date on Tim's original post...April Fools Day...

 

sitting here LMAO ;)!!!!!

 

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Morgan <jmorgan1023 [at] comcast.net

>
To: lml <lml [at] lancaironline.net

>
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 7:36 am
Subject: [LML] Microwave current draw

Hi Tim:

 

If the inverter is really delivering 1100 watts to the oven then it is drawing 85 amps or so from your 14 volt system (over 100 amps if the voltage falls to 11 volts). Suggest you check carefully if the wiring/breaker and engine monitor are both up to that current delivery. You will obviously run the battery down fairly quickly even if the alternator will support 60 amps continuous.

 

Jack Morgan

 

On Apr 2, 2014, at 6:00 AM, Lancair Mailing List <lml [at] lancaironline.net

> wrote:



From: Tim Jørgensen <tj [at] yacht-pool.dk ()

>

Subject: LNC2 wiring issues

Date: April 1, 2014 at 8:57:04 AM EDT

To: lml [at] lancaironline.net ()

Instead of adding useless lead in the tail cone, I decided to cure a fwd. CG problem with the installation of a more useful microwave oven in the luggage compartment. The CG problem is somewhat fixed now, but I seem to have traded it for an electrical problem.

I found a relatively small portable micro wave on the internet and made a fixed installation for it. It is a 230v unit, but I have just added a 14v to 230v inverter, which seems to work just fine. At first everything worked flawlessly, but recently the alternator breaker has started popping ever more often and is seems related to use of the oven.

If I heat something small, like a single corn dog, there is no problem but if I heat larger objects like a turkey leg, the engine monitor cuts out in an alternating pattern for a while and then the alternator breaker pops. But, then again, maybe that is due to the higher wattage needed???

I am afraid my 60 amp alternator is not quite up to the job or should I just install a heavier circuit breaker? The oven is labelled "CE 230v 1080w".

 

Regards

Tim Jorgensen

360MKII in flight testing

 

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