Submitted by Anonymous on Sat, 12/26/1998 - 07:47 Forums: LML Archive From: Pieter Pienaar <Pine [at] CPro.co.za> Subject: Fixing phenolic Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 09:47:34 +0200 To: LancairList <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Hi Does anyone know if it's possible to "fix" drilling mistakes in phenolic by filling the holes with flox and drilling new ones? The previous owner drilled the GM4 main attach plates 0.42" too close to the fus on the pilot side and I would like to fix this. If this is too risky I would have to hack out the piece and add in a new one. Pine Pienaar pine [at] cpro.co.za Lancair 360 #664 Fixing phenolic Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 12/31/1998 - 21:31 From: Buchanan & Newcomer <bnn [at] abac.com> Subject: Fixing phenolic Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:31:07 -0800 To: <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> At 09:51 PM 12/26/98 , you wrote: >Does anyone know if it's possible to "fix" drilling mistakes in phenolic by >filling the holes with flox and drilling new ones? The previous owner >drilled the GM4 main attach plates 0.42" too close to the fus on the pilot >side and I would like to fix this. If this is too risky I would have to hack >out the piece and add in a new one. > >Pine Pienaar Pine, Sorry about the late response. I've been away from the world for a while. It's already been recommended that you replace the phenolic block, but I don't know the difficulty involved so I'll offer some alternatives. 1. Be wary of using "flox" as a structural material. Depending on what you use as filler you can get tension strengths between 3% and 25% of the parent material. Compression strengths will be between 10% and 25% of the parent. (All assuming the parent is well made quasi-isotropic fiberglass/epoxy.) 2. Fill the original hole with a very close fitting phenolic plug bedded in high strength adhesive, a la' Hysol. Cover both sides of the plug with enough layers of glass to mimic the original skin laminate. Re-drill. Pro: Minimum work. Con: Questionable fatigue life. It's possible that the plug could come loose and/or disintegrate if it's too small and too highly loaded. Also, you may have to apply glass to the outside skin, which will be unsightly unless rebated via extended tapers. 3. Drill a hole large enough to eliminate the old hole and to drill the new hole in the center of the replacement bushing. Then do 2, above. Make sure you have at least 2/3 of the bushing diameter outside the bushing in parent material. Pro: Much more stable than option 2. Con: Large hole sometimes too difficult to fit. 4. Same as 3 except use a metal bushing with large overlapping washers inside and out. Pro: Substantially easier than 2 or 3. Con: Possibly unsightly. Very low strength perpendicular to the skin. (Assumes the only load is in the plane of the skin.) 5. Buy a new kit. Start over at the beginning. <G> Guy Buchanan Buchanan & Newcomer ******************************** NEW EMAIL ADDRESS: bnn [at] abac.com ********************************
Fixing phenolic Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 12/31/1998 - 21:31 From: Buchanan & Newcomer <bnn [at] abac.com> Subject: Fixing phenolic Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:31:07 -0800 To: <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> At 09:51 PM 12/26/98 , you wrote: >Does anyone know if it's possible to "fix" drilling mistakes in phenolic by >filling the holes with flox and drilling new ones? The previous owner >drilled the GM4 main attach plates 0.42" too close to the fus on the pilot >side and I would like to fix this. If this is too risky I would have to hack >out the piece and add in a new one. > >Pine Pienaar Pine, Sorry about the late response. I've been away from the world for a while. It's already been recommended that you replace the phenolic block, but I don't know the difficulty involved so I'll offer some alternatives. 1. Be wary of using "flox" as a structural material. Depending on what you use as filler you can get tension strengths between 3% and 25% of the parent material. Compression strengths will be between 10% and 25% of the parent. (All assuming the parent is well made quasi-isotropic fiberglass/epoxy.) 2. Fill the original hole with a very close fitting phenolic plug bedded in high strength adhesive, a la' Hysol. Cover both sides of the plug with enough layers of glass to mimic the original skin laminate. Re-drill. Pro: Minimum work. Con: Questionable fatigue life. It's possible that the plug could come loose and/or disintegrate if it's too small and too highly loaded. Also, you may have to apply glass to the outside skin, which will be unsightly unless rebated via extended tapers. 3. Drill a hole large enough to eliminate the old hole and to drill the new hole in the center of the replacement bushing. Then do 2, above. Make sure you have at least 2/3 of the bushing diameter outside the bushing in parent material. Pro: Much more stable than option 2. Con: Large hole sometimes too difficult to fit. 4. Same as 3 except use a metal bushing with large overlapping washers inside and out. Pro: Substantially easier than 2 or 3. Con: Possibly unsightly. Very low strength perpendicular to the skin. (Assumes the only load is in the plane of the skin.) 5. Buy a new kit. Start over at the beginning. <G> Guy Buchanan Buchanan & Newcomer ******************************** NEW EMAIL ADDRESS: bnn [at] abac.com ********************************
Fixing phenolic
Submitted by Anonymous on