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On the 235 your system is what is called out for on some service bulletin

or other (sorta), but The

spacer MUST BE ONE PIECE. Two (or more) washers on a smooth rod are used to

lock a rod in place in

some applications. My kit included a spacer, for something or other, that

fits over the rod and is

bored two diameters so it stops at the end of the thread. This spacer must

be cut to length on a

lathe. To get the correct length, put a washer on the rod, that the threads

will go through, but not

the main diameter of the rod. Adjust the rod end for down bottomed out.

Lock the washer in place

with a lock nut (like the rod end uses). Raise the gear to the full up

position turn the power off

and measure the distance between the washer and cylinder cap and cut the

spacer about ).005" longer.

In the bulletin the spacer floated and was stopped by the rod end stop nut.

That isn't a good idea,

lock the spacer against the shoulder formed between the threads and the

smooth part of the rod.If

needed I can look at my bulletins and send a copy. I can send a picture too

if needed.

In this same area the 235 plans has the inboard cylinder attach point about

3/8 too far forward. The

gear will raise and lower because of the slop the cylinder lug hole (no

ball joint) and bolt, but it

puts a strain on the cylinder rod and wears the seals. I think all cylinder

leaks can be traced to

this. The cylinder rod must be directly above and centered on the  over

center links. My neighbor

has a fix for builders that didn't catch this. I can send a picture of that

too.

Bill N7WB





[The manual calls for a 1.25" thick builtup phenolic structure to space the

inboard end of the cylinder back from the shear web... I was unhappy with

the angle that was formed between the rod and the o/c links so made it 1.5"

thick to keep everything in a straight line.



Thanks for the explanation about what's supposed to happen with that rod

end and the stops.  I'm sure I can adjust everything so the piston is

bottomed out for down and the stop sleeve controls the up amount.  I think

it can be done without the washers.  



I checked the factory service bulletin and didn't find any which addressed

this issue... the only one I found which was related was the replacement of

the GM3A o/c link with the GM3B.]  



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