Submitted by Anonymous on Sun, 12/13/1998 - 14:12 Forums: LML Archive From: William T Bartlett <wtbart [at] olympus.net> Subject: Transition light & Relays Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 06:12:36 -0800 To: <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> You would have to put in two lights and two sets of wiring. What you do is buy one of those big (+-5/8")square full wave rectifiers (They have a hole to mount with and heavy lugs) from Radio Shack and hook the + terminals to each coil and the other terminal to your transition light. The other lug should be grounded. The grounding will keep your relay and switch points from arcing. Bill N7WB ----- Original Message ----- > They also don't have an indicator terminal like the Ford relays, >but putting the indicator light in parallel to the coil will solve that >shortcoming in a hurry. If you're vacillating about whether or not to >replace those Ford boat anchors that came with the kit, you can stop now. > > <Marv> [I was thinking about just using a couple diodes, one from each relay, to the single light, but your idea of using the full wave rectifier sounds even better, what with providing the benefit of flyback protection to the pressure switch contacts, all in a single package. Great idea. Jeez, I love this list <g>. <M>] Transition light & Relays Submitted by Anonymous on Sun, 12/13/1998 - 19:20 From: Paul Kapcin <pkapcin [at] olsusa.com> Subject: Re: Transition light & Relays Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:20:41 -0500 To: <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Bill Bartlett wrote: >buy one of those big (+-5/8")square full wave rectifiers (They have a >hole to mount with and heavy lugs) from Radio Shack and hook the + terminals >to each coil and the other terminal to your transition light. The other >lug should be grounded. The grounding will keep your relay and switch >points from arcing. In reality this is the wrong hookup to get this job done. To make it work you must jumper from the switched side of one coil to one of the AC terminals on the bridge, jumper the other coil switched side to the other AC terminal on the bridge. One side of the transit light goes to ground, the other side of the transit light goes to the + terminal on the bridge. The - terminal on the bridge also goes to ground. Now it'll work. <Marv> PS... don't mind the return address, I'm writing from the shop on Cuz's computer. It's still me <g>. <M>
Transition light & Relays Submitted by Anonymous on Sun, 12/13/1998 - 19:20 From: Paul Kapcin <pkapcin [at] olsusa.com> Subject: Re: Transition light & Relays Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:20:41 -0500 To: <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Bill Bartlett wrote: >buy one of those big (+-5/8")square full wave rectifiers (They have a >hole to mount with and heavy lugs) from Radio Shack and hook the + terminals >to each coil and the other terminal to your transition light. The other >lug should be grounded. The grounding will keep your relay and switch >points from arcing. In reality this is the wrong hookup to get this job done. To make it work you must jumper from the switched side of one coil to one of the AC terminals on the bridge, jumper the other coil switched side to the other AC terminal on the bridge. One side of the transit light goes to ground, the other side of the transit light goes to the + terminal on the bridge. The - terminal on the bridge also goes to ground. Now it'll work. <Marv> PS... don't mind the return address, I'm writing from the shop on Cuz's computer. It's still me <g>. <M>
Transition light & Relays
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