"I was considering adding an anti-servo tab to my small tail. can anyone tell
me;
-the dimensions of the servo tab on the bigger tail (lxw)
-the gearing (how many degrees servo tab up for 10 degrees tail up)
-the dimensions of the big tail."
to Scott and others:- in Australia people are using anti-servo tabs initially to please our aviation authority, who require the back pressure on the elevator control to be increased and for reasons that have been subject to test and discussion for some years. Generally these anti-servo's consist of a linkage which causes the trim tab to increase in angle as the elevator is moved in the same direction thus increasing the returning force.
We measured the net angular effect of one of the trim tab linkages used here on a machine that is flying and the owner is pleased with the feel and response and we are incorporating the same angles on the larger Mk11 tail, the measurements are as follows:-
(a) If the elevaor and trim tab is initially in the in line with the tail plane ie, the centered position to begin with, then moving the elevator to its maximum up position(+26 degrees) will cause the trim tab to move (rotate) +22 degrees up and if the elevator is moved to its maximum down position (-11 degrees) then the trim tab will move (rotate) -10 degrees.
(b) If the trim tab is already up the maximum amount (+30 degrees) when the elevator is centered in line with the tailplane then moving the elevator to the maximum up postion (+26 degrees) will cause the trim tab to move from +30 degrees to +54 degrees and moving the elevator to its maximum down position (-11 degrees) will cause the trim tab to move from +30 degrees to +18 degrees.
(c) If the trim tab is already down the maximum amount (-30 degrees) when the elevator is in line with the tailplane then moving the elevator to the maximum down position (-11 degrees) will move the trim tab from -30 degrees to -42 degrees and moving the elevator to the maximum up position will cause the trim tab to move from -30 degrees to -2 degrees.
Scott or others if you are interested we have a drawing done by one of the partners in our project showing how we very simply moved the ESCO trim actuator to achieve the desired result. If anyone is interested please email me and I will and I will send it as a pdf file or fax it to you if there isn't many. Please bear in mind our plane is nearing completion but has yet to be flown and tested.
We are installing 4 EGT (exhaust gas sensors) one for each cylinder. It seems that on our exhaust system made from .032" stainless steel that it is impossible to place all four sensors at the same distance from the exhaust flange. The sensors are the type that poke through a hole in a stainless steel hose clamp. Does anyone know how critical it is to get the sensors the same distance from the exhaust port. It seems like we could install these sensors somewhere between 2" and 4" from the port. Is this close enough? or will we get a significant change in temperature reading just from the varying position of the sensors? We could possibly install one or two of the sensors on a curved section of the exhaust tubing but feel that the stainless steel hose clamp that holds the sensor in may wear into the exhaust pipe on the opposite side to the sensor.
Regards to everyone,
Chris Moore (VH-OIO Australia)
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Chris Moore <cmoore [at] apexus.com.au>
Date:
Mon, 30 Nov 1998 08:50:13 +1030
To:
'Lancair List' <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<< Lancair Builders' Mail List >>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
Cutting stainless steel for the firewall
It is a bit tedious but its cheap and do-it-yourself - we used a hand
nibbling tool available from electronics shops in Australia. Does a neat job
if you are carefull.
Rgds Chris Moore
Submitted by Anonymous on
Date:
Sat, 19 Dec 1998 21:01:00 -0500
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 21:01:00 -0500
To: <lancair.list [at] olsusa.com>
From: "Lorn H. Olsen" <lorn [at] mich.com>
Subject: Service Ceiling
X-Mailing-List: lancair.list [at] olsusa.com
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<< Lancair Builders' Mail List >>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>Curtis Krouse,
> I am not sure what the exact definition of "service ceiling" is. I
>think it is something like "the altitude at which your rate of climb at
>full power is reduced to xxx feet per second" but I don't know what the
>>numbers are. Anyway, I have flown my L320 with a O320-D1F engine to
>17,999 feet (VFR) and she was still climbing at a very slow rate. I
>hope this helps.
>Bob Jude
>N65BJ
The "service ceiling" is the altitude at which the aircraft's climb, under
full power, is reduced to 100 fpm. At Laincair's web sight, the L320 and
L360(non turbo charged) are listed as having a service ceiling of 18,000
feet at their gross weight of 1,685 lbs.
I bought my 320 in Carson City NV(KCXP). My flight back to Detroit was on
Thursday, July 16, 1998. The temperature was about 100° F on the ground
when I left.
My first stop would be in Pueblo, CO(KPUB), 700 km away.
I climbed to 17,500 ft to top the mountains. It was still bumpy at that
altitude. I stayed there for maybe 1.5 hours. I then climbed to 19,500. The
flight smoothed out at that altitude.
N31161 is powered by an O320-D1F. N31161 weighs 1,157, I weigh 250 and had
60 lbs of baggage. Taking off 9x6 lbs of fuel would leave 43x6 - 9x6 = 204
lbs of fuel. The total weight would then be: 1157+250+60+204 = 1,671 lbs.
The airplane was flying right at gross wieght. The engine is certifed to
fly at 2,700 RPM for an unlimited amount of time. I was flying at 2,450. I
could have had even more power.
The temperature at 19,500 was 0° C. This made my density altitude 22,500
ft. The L320(N31161) indicated 122 kts at that altitude. The true airspeed
was 174 kts or 200 mph. I had not yet reached the aircraft's service
ceiling. I was still climbing at about 400 fpm. I am sure that the plane
would have flown over 25,000 ft.
If I hadn't of seen it, I wouldn't of believed it! I had to take pictures
of the instruments to verify my readings when I finally got back to Earth.
<snip> The OAT probe is located below the middle of the co-pilots window and
it has been suggested
that heat from the engine may be blowing back to create a tunnel of hotter
than ambient air as a result. <snip>
Dave,
Relocate the OAT probe to the winglet for excellent results. Also, check
your OAT Compression. Contact Robert at Chelton for instruction on how to
check this if you don't already know how. It may have been fiddled with and
causing you errors.
The latest release of software should be 3.2J
Good luck
Kirk Hammersmith
Lancair Avionics, Inc.
(541) 923-2244
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
JJ JOHNSON <JJJOHNSON [at] ACCESSCOMM.CA>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Thu, 16 May 2002 10:29:55 -0400
To:
<lml>
Just curious as to anyone in the Calgary area W/ a
Lancair project. I'm going to be there all day tomorrow.. and although its short
notice.. I'd love to see a/some project[s] or finished
a/c.
Your e mail address on note to Frank Mercer was
incomplete and he is unable to respond. Please re submit to him @ sosalesfjm [at] juno.com.
Regards,
Jack Hickham
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Sat, 12 Oct 2002 19:56:30 -0400
To:
<lml>
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Lorn H. Olsen <lorn [at] dynacomm.ws>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:44:09 -0500
To:
<lml>
On 10/07/02, out over the Gulf of Mexico, on my way to Venice, FL, on a direct course from about 30 miles east of Tallahassee to Venice, at 11,500 ft.(density altitude 14,000 ft.), at 185 kts., I hit a bird.
It happened very fast. I saw a black dot in front and on the left and heard a thump. I had no time to do anything. After the strike, the first thing that I did was to check all of the engine gauges and make sure that the engine was still OK. It was. Next I tested the controls. The controls still felt OK.
I then looked around to see if I could see where it had hit. I could. On the left wing about 8" back from the leading edge and about 1/2 way between the wing attach and the wing tip I could see the mark. There was a streak about 6" wide and about 18" long. I reported the strike to Jacksonville Center and continued the flight.
When on the ground in Venice, I could see that there was no damage and the bird feathers wiped away with a damp cloth. What a relief for me. To bad for the bird.
Had the bird been flying 8" lower, I think that I would have had much more serious wing damage. This letter is to let you know that birds can be at any altitude. Keep your eyes open, stay on the alert and have fun flying.
Sincerely,
--
Lorn H. 'Feathers' Olsen, MAA, DynaComm, Corp.
248-478-4301, lorn [at] dynacomm.ws (mailto:)
LNC2, O-320-D1F, N31161, Y47, SE Michigan
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject:
Re:
Date:
Fri, 01 Nov 2002 14:29:40 -0500
To:
<lml>
Posted for "George/Shirley Shattuck" <kloop [at] plantationcable.net>:
Bird strike is bad, but what about a bug strike. True story. I was at
10,500 ft. somewhere over southern Illinois enroute to Faribault, Minnesota
when a bug, yes, a bug, smacked into the canopy right in front of my eyes.
Killed the bug, no damage to my canopy. Scared the heck out of me. Now
that was some bug. A bird I can understand soaring to some great height,
but not a bug.
George Shattuck
N320GS
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject:
Re: [LML] Re:
Date:
Mon, 04 Nov 2002 10:43:20 -0500
To:
<lml>
Posted for "JJ JOHNSON" <JJJOHNSON [at] ACCESSCOMM.CA>:
I've heard airline Captains call out geese in the flight level's as well as
a Md-80 that hit a 'sparrow size bird' up there to,so.. anything is
possible. I've also heard of bugs up there as well but usually only around
storms and what not where the updrafts carry them up. At that point would
the be still alive?? or have suffered an hypoxic death? Dumb Trivia anyway
:)
Jarrett Johnson
235/320 50%
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Robert Smiley <rsmiley [at] centurytel.net>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject:
Re: [LML] Re:
Date:
Mon, 04 Nov 2002 12:26:58 -0500
To:
<lml>
Those Geese are probably Barhead geese. They have an uncanny capacity to
extract O2 out of rarified air, Turbine powered I guess.
Bob Smiley
N94RJ
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Scott percival <percivalsd [at] hotmail.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Sat, 08 Feb 2003 20:42:55 -0500
To:
<lml>
I hope someone can help me with some answers to a few questions.
I have just purchased partly complete L360 kit in Australia. I are trying to get up to speed on how to best compete this kit with out making the wrong decisions on engine props ect. There must be lots of operational experance by now with these planes.
The engine I have is a IO 360 C1C 200hp.
Is it true that 200hp engines seem not to have a good track record for maintainence issues, do they generally go the full TBO?
What is the expected performance increase using the 200hp verses the 180hp. Dose the increases in weight and added full consumption negate any real performance increases in the cruise climb ground roll.
I are hoping to use a fixed pitch prop, has anyone done this with a 200hp and if so do you have any real numbers ground roll climb cruise weights ect. I do realize that by using a fixed pitch prop you have to give up some climb or cruise just how much is the question? Do most of the people that have tried to use fix pitch end up with a CSU prop in the end? I are sure I are not the first to try to save both weight and money, it just might not be the place to do it. Some real world data would be helpful.
First why do you need it conductive? Lightening will jump the small gap
easily
IF you are hit.
2nd, foreign matter reduces the strength of any bond. Why, would you even
think of adding aluminum powder? Have you done a test sample to check any
strength changes?
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley [at] qcbc.org or experimenter [at] eaa.org
> Can anybody knowledgable person think of any good reason to not include
> this silver powder/flake in the hysol?>>
I'll take a guess on this one. I would think that it would be very
desirable to have both skins electrically connected. Otherwise a large
static voltage could build between the two skins and then the potential arc
(lightning) between could cause enough heat to essentially blow the two
skins apart. Not a good thing at the leading edge. Also, we've worked some
with conductive plastics, most of which contain metallic particles.
Strength isn't usually compromised as all resins, including the Hysol after
we add flox, have fillers that usually increase the strength. Whether these
silver particles increase or decrease the strength should be verified before
using. Unfortunately, getting accurate bond strength test data isn't that
easy. I would not expect a problem.
Gary Casey
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Denny <d.duello [at] www.mebbs.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Mon, 08 Sep 2003 12:32:00 -0400
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Hi,
In the interest of minimizing the number of fasteners
exposed to view on the instrument panel, we're planning to use an adhesive to
bond some aluminum stiffeners to the forward side of the aluminum panel.
The airliner maunfacturers have been bonding aluminum to aluminum for
years. Lancair recommended we use Hysol. We tested it on some raw
materials, and were negatively impressed. Does anyone have a product
to recommend?
>>...Mind you, this is the same A&P that forgot to put the
sleeves in the injectors when he reassembled my engine and spent 20 manhours
trying to figure out my RPM problem that turned out to be a binding tach drive
cable!...<<
I am surprised he is still youre A&P.
Gary Edwards
LNC2 N21SN
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
craig blitzer <CBLITZER [at] triad.rr.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Sun, 12 Oct 2003 13:35:57 -0400
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Does anyone have any good photos
or advice as to how one is to route the cable for the retractable step on the
IV-P. The blue prints are horribly inadequate and all I can tell from them
is that the cable guide tube looks like it goes through the circular opening in
the gear box. Also, it looks like the blue prints call for the cable
guide clamp to be installed in a very thick piece of steel - quite bizarre
since the clamp is to be bolted?
Also, where the inboard flap meets the fairing, the
fairing is course=se open - does that get closed to make it weather tight, and
if so, flox, micro, hysol - ???
Many thanks
Craig Blitzer
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Rob Logan <Rob [at] Logan.com>
Subject:
Fw: [LML]
Date:
Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:02:04 -0400
To:
Lancair Mailing List <lml [at] lancaironline.net>
From: <craig_bu [at] ameritech.net>
Craig,
I just finished installing my retract step and for what it is worth here are pictures of what I did and what I learned.
1) With respect to engineering design, novel and worthless can be synonymous
2) The factory cable guide did not work for me. I ordered a length of tubing and formed a new one using a coat hangar
as a template. Required three iterations.
3 My flap control rod passes very close to the bottom of the clearance hole in the landing gear box and there was not
room for the cable guide and the control rod to both reside at the bottom portion of the hole in the landing gear box.
Therefore I had to force the cable guide to reside in the top of the hole in the landing gear box, thus the dedicated
hole through the fuselage for the cable guide.
4) If you need to support the cable guide on the inside of the landing gear box, I think that you will find a
conveniently located bolt close to the top of the thru hole in the landing gear box. You can easily make a bracket that
fits on this bolt and supports the cable guide as it passes through the top of the control rod hole in the landing gear
box.
5 Make sure that you have room between your top wing root fairing and the cable guide. Also watch when you have the
step fully retracted that the cable attachment on the step does not hit the step latch mechanism when you have the step
fully retracted.
This should not be construed as the gospel, merely an observation of what appears to be working for me.
Craig Burgess
IV-PT
60% done and they haven't broken me yet
> Does anyone have any good photos or advice as to how one is to route the cable for the retractable step
I am making final adjustments to flaps on my
IV-P. Does anyone know if I am supposed to use the "smart-tool" and make
sure that the flaps are indicating specific angles in certain positions?
For example, when the flaps are fully retracted, what should the smart-tool
read, and of course, what should it read when the flaps are fully
extended? Of course, it is certainly possible that al of this is wrong and
if that is the case, what if anything do you do to the flaps for final
adjustment?
Thanks
Craig Blitzer - cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
craig blitzer <CBLITZER [at] triad.rr.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:54:19 -0500
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
What is all you IV-P flyer/builders doing about
arms rests for your seat up front?
Also, has anyone installed a hand grip like you
would see in a commercial plane, something really really secure to hold onto
with your non-flying hand in bad weather? I thought about using a very
wide drawer handle, secured and counter sunk through the top of the
fuselage? Any comments would be appreciated?
Thanks,
Craig Blitzer,
cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
<VTAILJEFF [at] aol.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject:
Re: [LML]
Date:
Thu, 20 Nov 2003 22:01:59 -0500
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Some folks are using an automotive handgrip like those found in my Toyota 4Runner. Try a salvage yard.
I am building a IV-P in a heated garage.
Although very comfortable to work in, I cannot maintain 70 degrees as I would
like to for the Jeffco.
Does anyone know if there is a heater available, or
has anyone made something that works and is safe?
I have talked with a number of people and of course
I am concerned about spontaneous combustion even with a light/heat source on a
timer or thermostat.
I know the hardener ships as hazardous material -
is that because it is flammable?
Any thoughts or solutions are
appreciated.
Craig Blitzer
cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
John Barrett <2thman [at] cablespeed.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject:
RE: [LML] Fw:
Date:
Sat, 29 Nov 2003 18:18:40 -0500
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Two
issues: 1.) Storage of the material for long term. 2.)Temperature of
the material you are using.
1.)For
storage, you want the material to be cool, but probably above
freezing.
2.)For
the other you need a controlled environment. Build an insulated box from
cardboard that will house your epoxy mixer. Cut two doors in it one for
the pump handle and one big enough you can hold a container under the nozzles
when you pump out your Jeffco. Get a simple 120 volt baseboard heater
thermostat and wire it to a standard light bulb socket. Use a 40 watt bulb
and find a spot inside your box for the bulb and thermostat.
Make removable insulated covers for your two doors to keep the heat in when
you're not accessing the material. Plug the bulb/thermostat in and set
your thermostat at a low setting then use a thermometer to adjust to get the
temps right.
The
only undue hazard would be to improperly wire/insulate your heating apparatus,
or to place the bulb directly against a flammable surface or the plastic
containers that could perhaps melt. I bought a drop light from an
auto parts store that has a wire cage housing for the bulb. I just set this on
the floor of the container and it has a good air barrier around
it.
I am building a IV-P in a heated garage.
Although very comfortable to work in, I cannot maintain 70 degrees as I would
like to for the Jeffco.
Does anyone know if there is a heater available,
or has anyone made something that works and is safe?
I have talked with a number of people and of
course I am concerned about spontaneous combustion even with a light/heat
source on a timer or thermostat.
I know the hardener ships as hazardous material -
is that because it is flammable?
Any thoughts or solutions are
appreciated.
Craig Blitzer
cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Brent Allan <brentallan [at] sbcglobal.net>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:58:30 -0500
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Does anyone know how to contact Nathan Kanagy? He was interested in a IV-P.
Brent S.
Lancair IV-P
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
cblitzer <cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Wed, 25 Feb 2004 09:52:04 -0500
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
Anyone ever find or receive a list of the IV-P
engine prices?
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
cblitzer <cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com>
Sender:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Date:
Sun, 13 Jun 2004 11:10:02 -0400
To:
<lml [at] lancaironline.net>
I am sure that there has been some discussion
previously on this subject, but at the risk of asking those of you who know to
repeat yourselves -
Does anyone have any experience or comments
regarding the WX satellite weather link compared to other
kinds?
Thanks
Craig Blitzer
cblitzer [at] triad.rr.com
Submitted by Anonymous on
From:
Marvin Kaye <marv [at] lancaironline.net>
Subject:
Re:
Date:
Sun, 11 Jul 2004 13:28:51 -0400
To:
<lml>
Posted for "Ron and Marlene Brice" <ghost1934 [at] LVBW.net>:
In response to all the queries, here are a few pics of N27RM on her
(second <grin>) maiden flight with Peter Stiles at the helm.
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