There is no such thing as an STC for an
"Experimental" category aircraft. It sounds like hype to me. STC
stands for Supplemental Type Certificate and Experimental
homebuilt aircraft do not have a type certificate.
I have an IO-360 with a spin on filter. The filter sits above the cowl
just a bit. The filter is the Champion CH48108-1. Is there another that doesn’t
sit so high to interfere with the cowl?
I've meant to answer this for a while, but kept putting it off. I've used a Mobil M1-107 automotive oil filter on my Lycoming IO-320 for over ten years. Them M1-107's gasket fits the standard Lycoming spin-on perfectly. It's a premium automotive filter and, although I don't have emperical evidence, I'm certain it's superior to antiquated 'aviation' oil filter technology. It's also considerably smaller than the Champion, which might solve your interference problem.
1) Remove more contaminants than conventional filters using an advanced synthetic fiber blend filter media
2) Holds and remove three times the dirt versus the leading economy filter brand
3) Reduces resistance to oil flow while improving filter efficiency
4) Withstands up to nine times the normal system operating pressure
Bill Rumburg
N403WR (Sonic bOOm)
----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Nordin
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2014 12:17 PM
Subject: [LML] Oil filter
Lancairians,
I have an IO-360 with a spin on filter. The filter sits above the cowl just a bit. The filter is the Champion CH48108-1. Is there another that doesn't sit so high to interfere with the cowl?
Interesting idea. I agree the filtering efficiency of a/c oil filters is appalling. However, after taking the Continental course, it's my distinct impression that a big part of why our aircraft engines work today is because they've been tweaked in subtle ways to address the failures of the last 50 years. In other words we know what we know because of massive field experience, more than anything else. ...and Continental (or Lycoming) made the minor changes they made because each stopped some catastrophic failure mode.
I looked around for specs and couldn't find any. I would want to know some things before I put one in my airplane. like:
- what is the oil flow in gallons per minute of an aircraft engine oil system vs. an automobile?
- at that flow rate what is the pressure drop across the oil filter?
- how much more oil pressure will I see on the upstream side of that filter than I would with a inefficient aircraft oil filter?
- how does my oil pump and anything connected to it respond to that pressure?
- is there a bypass feature in the filter in case an internal blockage develops in the filter? If so, at what pressure does it kick in vs. an aviation filter?
- what happens to my flow rate at low rpm?
- at startup, how long does it take oil to reach critical locations?
Colyn
On May 2, 2014, at 11:17 AM, William Rumburg wrote:
Hi Jim -
I've meant to answer this for a while, but kept putting it off. I've used a Mobil M1-107 automotive oil filter on my Lycoming IO-320 for over ten years. Them M1-107's gasket fits the standard Lycoming spin-on perfectly. It's a premium automotive filter and, although I don't have emperical evidence, I'm certain it's superior to antiquated 'aviation' oil filter technology. It's also considerably smaller than the Champion, which might solve your interference problem.
1) Remove more contaminants than conventional filters using an advanced synthetic fiber blend filter media
2) Holds and remove three times the dirt versus the leading economy filter brand
3) Reduces resistance to oil flow while improving filter efficiency
4) Withstands up to nine times the normal system operating pressure
Bill Rumburg
N403WR (Sonic bOOm)
----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Nordin
To: lml [at] lancaironline.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2014 12:17 PM
Subject: [LML] Oil filter
Lancairians,
I have an IO-360 with a spin on filter. The filter sits above the cowl just a bit. The filter is the Champion CH48108-1. Is there another that doesn't sit so high to interfere with the cowl?
I was told once (a long time ago) that the main difference between automotive and aircraft filters is that the aircraft filters are built for a much higher maximum pressure. Feel the weight - you can tell the metal is thicker. At some pressure any oil filter will distort enough to lift the seal off the surface and blow oil out. The problem occurs on a cold-oil takeoff - max rpm with cold oil. I doubt very much if an automotive oil filter will exceed its pressure rating (which is something around 500 psi), but that's what I was told once upon a time. Another difference is that certified aircraft oil filters have to have a means for positively retaining the filter - a safety wire tab. However, I have never
seen or heard of an oil filter coming loose after having been tightened reasonably. The final difference is that aircraft filters have to have a means of measuring installation torque. But other than that, I suspect automotive filters are at least as good as the aircraft version. You pays your money and takes your choice, I guess.
Gary Casey
Hi Jim -
I've meant to answer this for a while, but kept putting it off. I've used a Mobil M1-107 automotive oil filter on my Lycoming IO-320 for over ten years. Them M1-107's gasket fits the standard Lycoming spin-on perfectly. It's a premium automotive filter and, although I don't have emperical evidence, I'm certain it's superior to antiquated 'aviation' oil filter
technology. It's also considerably smaller than the Champion, which might solve your interference problem. Here are Mobil's claims from their website... http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance_Oil_Filters.aspx
1) Remove more contaminants than conventional filters using an advanced synthetic fiber blend filter media 2) Holds and remove three times the dirt versus the leading economy filter brand 3) Reduces resistance to oil flow while improving filter efficiency 4) Withstands up to nine times the normal system operating pressure
The 320 I built has the 'short' engine
mount, which doesn't provide nearly enough clearance for an
aviation filter. I wasn't about to punch a hole in the firewall or resort
to a right angle adapter, so I checked automotive filters and identified the
Mobil M1-107 as small enough to install in
the available space and having a gasket which matches the Lycoming
spin-on's sealing surface. I didn't check the 107's flow rating, but
it's applications include GM V-8 engines up to 364 cid, so I felt
comfortable that it could handle the flow rate in my 4 cylinder, 320 cid
Lycoming. I'm not knowledgeable of aviation versus automotive oil filter
pressure ratings, but Mobil claims that the M1 "withstands up to nine
times the normal system operating pressure" and that seems pretty high to me
(I've also never heard, or read, of even the cheapest automotive filter
rupturing). On top of all that, it's functioned flawlessly in my 320 for
over ten years and I believe Mobil's claim that it "removes more contaminants
than conventional filters using an advanced synthetic fiber blend filter
media". I think it's great that we experimentals can take advantage of
some modern, advanced automotive technology.
As for lockwiring, I drilled a 1/32" hole through
the hex head of a Breeze clamp, then snugly tighten the clamp around the base of
the filter and lockwire the hex head to a 1/32" hole drilled in a
small fin at the rear of the oil temperature probe housing.
I was told once (a long time ago) that the
main difference between automotive and aircraft filters is that the aircraft
filters are built for a much higher maximum pressure. Feel the weight -
you can tell the metal is thicker. At some pressure any oil filter will
distort enough to lift the seal off the surface and blow oil out. The
problem occurs on a cold-oil takeoff - max rpm with cold oil. I doubt
very much if an automotive oil filter will exceed its pressure rating (which
is something around 500 psi), but that's what I was told once upon a time.
Another difference is that certified aircraft oil filters have to have a
means for positively retaining the filter - a safety wire tab. However,
I have never seen or heard of an oil filter coming loose after having been
tightened reasonably. The final difference is that aircraft filters have
to have a means of measuring installation torque. But other than that, I
suspect automotive filters are at least as good as the aircraft version.
You pays your money and takes your choice, I guess.
It sounds like you've done your research and your solution is a good one.Now that you mention it, I've seen the hose clamp method before, although with the lock wire simply wrapped around the "barrel" of the hose clamp. I'm sure the automotive filter has enough flow capacity. I'd be totally confident. Good work.
Gary
Gary/Colyn -
The 320 I built has the 'short' engine mount, which doesn't provide = nearly enough clearance for an aviation filter. I wasn't about to punch = a hole in the firewall or resort to a right angle adapter, so I checked = automotive filters and identified the Mobil M1-107 as small enough to = install in the available space and having a gasket which matches the = Lycoming spin-on's sealing surface. I didn't check the 107's flow = rating, but it's applications include GM V-8 engines up to 364 cid, so I = felt comfortable that it could handle the flow rate in my 4
cylinder, = 320 cid Lycoming. I'm not knowledgeable of aviation versus automotive = oil filter pressure ratings, but Mobil claims that the M1 "withstands up = to nine times the normal system operating pressure" and that seems = pretty high to me (I've also never heard, or read, of even the cheapest = automotive
filter rupturing). On top of all that, it's functioned = flawlessly in my 320 for over ten years and I believe Mobil's claim that = it "removes more contaminants than conventional filters using an = advanced synthetic fiber blend filter media". I think it's great that we = experimentals can take advantage of some modern, advanced automotive = technology. As for lockwiring, I drilled a 1/32" hole through the hex head of a = Breeze clamp, then snugly tighten the clamp around the base of the = filter and lockwire the hex head to a 1/32" hole drilled in a small fin = at the rear of the oil temperature probe housing.=20
Been using a fram HP filter for about
10 years just switched to a K&N because it has a nut on it,
both tested above 140psi on hose tester with no leaks at gsk. or
visible deformation of can, will get some part numbers this
weekend.
I have an IO-360 with a spin on
filter. The filter sits above the cowl just a bit. The
filter is the Champion CH48108-1. Is there another that
doesn’t sit so high to interfere with the cowl?
Back home checked oil filter part
numbers. KN HP-2004 4 inch long, Fram HP 3 also 4 inch long. KN
filter has nut Fram does not. There is a you tube video comparing
the Fram HP and KN HP filter there is some difference. Fram has
some things I like better.
Been using a fram HP filter for
about 10 years just switched to a K&N because it has a nut
on it, both tested above 140psi on hose tester with no leaks at
gsk. or visible deformation of can, will get some part numbers
this weekend.
I have an IO-360 with a spin
on filter. The filter sits above the cowl just a bit.
The filter is the Champion CH48108-1. Is there another
that doesn’t sit so high to interfere with the cowl?
oil filter
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